Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Alpine Gear List

Watched a cool video awhile back laying out a well stocked and planned multi-day alpine pack, and decided to go through the list and see what I have, what I need, and what I can ditch. The main goal is to keep weight down, but not skimp on safety. Comfort? Well, it depends, but it isn't a priority other than warmth and dryness. Closest thing I figured out for a check mark, √, indicates what I have covered.

UltraLight tent, 2.5lbs or less
Sleeping bag (√) with compression sack
Sleeping pad √
Cup/Plate & Spork √
Camelback (√) or MSR Dromedary
Water Bottle √
Jetboil and fuel
Food bag √ (3000-4500 Cal. per day per person)
Mountaineering boots, crampon compatible √
Soft shell pants
Base layer long sleeve √
Base layer short sleeve √
Mid layer shirt √
Shell jacket and pants √
Light head cover √
Sun hat √
Puffy jacket √
Gloves √
Gaiters √
Sunglasses/Glacier Glasses
Toiletry Items (sunblock, lip balm, tooth brush, tooth paste) √
Crampons √
Harness √
Crevasse rescue set (3 prussik knots/2 slings)√
2 ice screws
Small rack of Pro (cams, nuts, chocks)
Quick draws √
Snow picket
Ice axe √
Rope (dry treated) 30-60M (Petzl Xion 10.1X60 √)
Helmet √
Maps (for the climbs I have planned √)
Compass √
Leatherman/small survival kit √
Headlamp √
First Aid kit √
Pack, 45-50L

In theory, all this gear, not including the boots and initial clothing layers you'd be wearing, should come in around 35-40 lbs. Adjusting for extra food and fuel depending on how many days the trip will last, 50lbs max. Of course, this is for light and fast, under 15,000' summer season climbs. Any higher or later season, obviously warmer clothing and sleep systems would be needed. My gear is coming together, going for lighter and faster since most of my climbing plans for now are only 2-3 day max under 14,000'. My list for this year is pretty much just completing what I started last year: McLoughlin, South Sister, Adams, and at least up to Camp Muir on Rainier. Exercise, conditioning, and getting some time at altitude for the next few months while I wait for various roads to clear up.

Saturday, April 7, 2012

The Order of Death

It's a full moon tonight as I drove home from a gathering in Corvallis to celebrate the monthly event. Tired, a little mentally overloaded from the week, I turned onto Harrison Boulevard and hit play on my stereo. The track "The Order of Death" by Public Image Ltd. came on, and I found myself almost slipping into a transcendental meditative state as the lyrics repeated in my head......."This is what you want, this is what you get"........ My thoughts cleared, my senses almost felt heightened, as the road and fields were bathed in the pale glow of the full moon......"This is what you want, this is what you get"......

It seemed as though the song wouldn't end, it continued to play as the mantra of the lyrics continued to loop as the only thoughts in my head. If you think about it, it is very true. We go through our lives "wanting". We always want something, love, happiness, material possessions, or money. We want peace of mind, or we want power and prestige. What we get may be radically different, or it may corrupt us spiritually and harm us physically. I don't need more material possessions, but there is always things I want. I want happiness, and a satisfaction for doing what I can to help others, I want to be able to give and receive love and affection. I still wish upon stars, but not for "stuff". Immature? Maybe, but it keeps a spark of hope alive for spiritual needs. "This is what you want, this is what you get".............

Strange when peace comes over you, that you understand that most of your life is beyond your control.